Delhi’s not for the fainthearted, but you’d be mad to miss it. As the country’s capital and home to almost 17 million people, you get the impression that the cliché of India as a contrast between old and new must have been born here.
First things first, the geography: Delhi is split up into Old Delhi and New Delhi. The old town in the north of the city is a chaotic but charming maze of markets and Moghul temples, while the new town in the south is made up of cool, leafy streets and modern business buildings.
For sites, don’t mess around, just go big with your tour of Delhi and you won’t be disappointed. There are more jaw-dropping historical monuments than you can shake a tour guide’s umbrella at. The Red Fort, India Gate, all those big beasts of Indian culture – they won’t let you down.
But there is another, altogether more chic side to Delhi, that might be an eye-opener. Check out the Hauz Khaz area in South Delhi – think of it as India’s answer to Shoreditch. It’s the trendiest neighbourhood in New Delhi right now, based around the south of the city. Frequented by artists and creatives, it buzzes with hip bars, music venues and cafes – a place where coffee is overtaking chai.
So, dive in and embrace the contrast. Weave through the locals and dodge the cows in Old Delhi in the morning; wander round the serene Lodhi Gardens in the afternoon; and then head to one of the many buzzing bars for a drink in the evening.
A little know-how will go a long way.